Day 1
At some point Katie and I were discussing how both of us were interested in paddling the Powell Forest Canoe Route and neither of us had done so. Shortly thereafter, an idea was born. :)
On the first day of our trip, we struggled to wake up for a 6:00am departure after staying up late packing. But all went well, and we managed to make our 7:20am ferry from Horseshoe Bay to Langdale without a hitch.
While on the ferry, we met an extremely friendly teacup yorkie, a colourful budgie (?), and their equally interesting caregivers.
Katie makes an instant friend |
Perky ears |
Naptime |
So-long, Vancouver |
Our second ferry of the day, from Earl's Cove to Saltery Bay, proved fare more interesting. Upon climbing to the uppermost passenger deck, we noticed the captain beckoning to us. At first we thought we'd accidentally entered an off-limits area, but after checking around us, and looking at the captain's signals a second time, we realized he was inviting us to come up to the bridge for a little look-see. :)
The cute, ever-so-busy, Earl's Cove ferry terminal |
Strange place to store your dishrags |
A chance to captain the Queen of Chilliwack? |
Katie gets a turn, too |
Finally, after 150km of driving, two ferries, one canoe rental, and some logging roads, we prepare to set off on Lois Lake (about 6 hours after departure from Vancouver). The most interesting facet of our time on Lois Lake was perhaps the mental image of lumberjacks with chainsaws scuba diving in plaid shirts to harvest the drowned forests lining the lake... In reality, underwater logging turns out to be a little different from our mental image.
Katie makes some final preparations |
A first look at the local float cabin concept |
Underway on Lois Lake |
Nest |
Warning: Active underwater logging |
Our first adventures in portaging went reasonably well. The primary challenge was finding a configuration where our lifejacket padding stayed put and did not exert imbalancing forces on the boat. We persevered, with much creativity and merriment, and at long last made our campsite on Horseshoe Lake.
Day 2
Our second day dawned sunny and warm... can't complain about tanktop weather in April! Since the campsite was near a small damn in logging territory, it was no shock that the morning's challenge was selecting a launch site from the logjammed shoreline. Katie's natural grace and nimbleness came to the rescue, and we were able to launch without incident. Once underway, we quicklu paddled Horseshoe and Nanton Lakes, stopping briefly for lunch on a small, bugfree island to recharge before our seconf round of portaging.
Round two of portaging went smoother than round one. After various experiments with life jacket orientations, Katie at last discovered that her neoprene socks make the best shoulder pads yet. The canoe seemed to weight evenly on our shoulders with this new padding solution, with much less wobbling and sliding and fussing. In general, the portage was a very lush, damp, we(s)t coast rainforest portage. We were appreciative of the boardwalks maintained by the Bloody Old Men's Brigade. (Or at least I was... no gaiters or rubber boats hiding in my pack!)
The portaging was broken up with a short paddle down Ireland Lake. At the end of the day, as we arrived at our destination campsite on Dodd Lake, we noticed that it was a car-accessible site and a bit crowded on this lovely April weekend, so we shoved off across the lake and flaked out on our own at the smaller site on the far side.
Day 3
Our third day started out chilly, but pleasantly calm for our paddle down Dodd Lake. We paddled the lake, portaged uneventfully to very pretty windsor Lake, then paddled the length of Windsor Lake before arriving at the Portage of Evil...
The infamous Goat Lake portage, aka "cardiac hill", was just 2.4km with a 200m net elevation change. Though tough on the knees, the portage generaly went well. There were a few challenges from numerous early-season deadfalls, and it was a bit hard to pick up the trail after one of the four road crossings (which may have also served to diminish the wilderness feeling of the outing), but we persevered and in fact Katie managed an incredibly energetic second wind as we made our way down the hill for the final time.
Day 4
We were pleased to find on our fourth day that the previous day's activities had not left us in too bad shape. I will admit my knees were still sore from the plentiful downhill hiking, but they rejoiced at the idea of a day of pure paddling and no portaging.
In spite of warnings about the afternoon winds on Powell Lake, we sort of slept in after staying up late the night before, enjoying an evening paddle staring at the stars and listening to drunken beavers hurl themselves off nearby cliffs. (Or... perhaps it was just some very large fish jumping.... Or bears hucking rocks at us... Or... ?) However, we did eventually manage to wake up around 7:30 or so, break camp, and get underway.
Wn route to Powell Lake, we slalomed the dead tree challenge of the connecting channel, and paused to investigate the local kingfishers and dogwood.
As we exited the channel, a headwind appeared to be picking up to challenge us, but we were in luck and it never quite materialized, allowing a very reasonable (if longish) paddle to our lunch stop.
Finally, after 10km or so of paddling (felt like more), we made a stop for lunch. The campsite was quite interesting, and perhaps somewhat less maintained than others on the route. That it appeared to be losing a battle with nature seemed to give it a certain... rustic charm. While there, we found a notebook left for visitors to sign. Although we likely should have gotten back under way while we knew the winds were light, instead we found great mirth and merriment in concocting a cartoon version of our adventures thus far.
Back underway after our extended lunch break, we paddled anotehr 10km or so down Powell Lake until the suggested campsite for the evening. Sort of. In fact we never found the campsite per se (the map we had with us was wildly inaccurate on this point), but we did find an amusingly oblivious muskrat, some rather entertaining bushwhacking opportunities (looking for tent sites), some very nice moose tracks, an awesome rope swing that I really wanted to play on if only I hadn't been so cold at the time, a perfectly soft spot for our tent, and an utterly unresonable number of annoying gnats or some such that didn't so much bite as fly repeatedly into your eyes.
Day 5
Our fifth day proved to be the day that taught us to appreciate the dryness of all our other days. Katie devised an excellent kitchen tarp from our space blanket, allowing for a nice, dry breakfast. We got underway shortly after breakie, and found ourselves at the Shingle Mill end of Powell Lake by noonish.
At Shingle Mill we were able to call our trusty outfitters for pickup, and grab a bowl of chowder each before being shuttled back to our car.
Having completed the circuit so early in the day, we had plenty of time to head back to Vancouver the same day, though we did find ourselves with a very long ferry wait after just missing a Saltery Bay - Earl's Cove sailing. Happily, the ferries made up for the waits with a number of entertaining and unusual signs.
All works © Debra Richardson
(except certain photos © various friends and used here with permission)